Many dermatologists have spoken against the 10-step skincare routine, and are advocating for simple, tailored routines this year. Here, Dr Emma Amoafo-Mensah explains what you actually need to achieve your skin goals. 

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The basics 

There are actually only three parts of a skincare routine that are required – a cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen. Everything else is an addition which should be included to reach specific skin goals. The most successful routine is one that is simple, to minimise the risk of irritation and simultaneously increase the likelihood of you going through all the steps each day. It’s virtually impossible to see results if you’re not consistent, and there’s an inverse relationship between the number of steps in a routine and the likelihood of you sticking to it!

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Double cleansing

Many of us will need an oil-based cleanser, balm or micellar water for our first cleanse to lift off make-up, sunscreen and oils that have gathered on our skin throughout the day. Not everyone needs to double cleanse, however; it’s a lie we’re sold on social media. A double cleanse is certainly necessary if you’ve been wearing make-up, but I find that some people with dry skin can’t tolerate double cleansing, and it might not be needed if you’ve just been wearing sunscreen.

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Choosing the second cleanser should be based on your skin type. Oily, blemish-prone skin usually benefits from a foaming cleanser, and you may want to choose one with added ingredients such as salicylic acid (to fight against those blemishes) or niacinamide (to help with oil production). Dry skin usually prefers more hydrating, non-foaming cleansers to prevent stripping of the skin barrier. If you have combination skin, you could try a hydrating cream-to-foam cleanser, or alternate between different types. 

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If you don’t know what your skin type is, a simple test is to wash your face with a gentle cleanser and leave it for 10-15 minutes without applying anything to it. If your skin is left feeling dry and tight, you have dry skin; if it’s oily, you have oily skin; and if you get oily over your T-zone but dry elsewhere, you have combination skin. 

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There is usually no reason to double cleanse in the morning, and that can actually be harmful to some. Some people with dry skin may choose to skip the morning cleanse together, which is entirely reasonable.

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Choosing your moisturiser

Everyone needs a moisturiser to protect the skin barrier after cleansing. Many people with oily skin are under the incorrect assumption that they don’t need to moisturise because their skin is already producing too much oil. The opposite is actually true in some cases – the skin may be over-producing sebum in an attempt to save dehydrated skin. 

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If you have oily skin, opt for lightweight, gel moisturisers which won’t make your skin more shiny or clog your pores. Dry skin needs a thicker, more nourishing moisturiser, especially in the winter. Ceramides and peptides are useful ingredients here. 

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Again, you may want to look for moisturisers with specific ingredients to reach your skin goals – we all love a multi-purpose product! For example, a moisturiser containing vitamin C can have anti-ageing benefits as well as contribute to improving hyperpigmentation. 

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All skin needs SPF

All skin types regardless of colour need sunscreen. The most important function of sunscreen is of course to protect against skin cancer. Our faces are exposed to UV rays every single day, regardless of the time of year, and the face is one of the most common sites for skin cancer. In black skin, research shows that developing skin cancer isn’t directly related to UV radiation exposure. However, hyperpigmentation (including conditions like melasma) is a very common skin complaint amongst those with black skin, and sunscreen is the most important part of your skincare routine to combat stubborn dark marks. Thirdly, UV radiation is the most significant contributor to wrinkles and the signs of ageing, so sunscreen is key to preventing that.

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The best sunscreen is the one you will be happy to wear. There are so many different formulations and textures, we should all be able to find one we love. The only rule is the sunscreen should be at least SPF30 or above and should be broad spectrum (or have a UVA star rating above 3). This ensures that your sunscreen is protecting against both UVA and UVB rays. Make sure you put on enough (the two-finger rule can be helpful) and don’t forget to protect your neck too!

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Everything else

Now you have the scaffolding of your routine in place, you can think about introducing additional steps depending on your skin complaint.  

• A retinol or retinoid has several benefits – they’re anti-ageing, they lighten hyperpigmentation and they can be used to treat acne. Many of us can benefit from using one in some shape or form.
• Toners aren’t a necessity for all, but they can be a great way of introducing some additional hydration or exfoliation to your skin. They were initially created to help restore the skin to its slightly acidic pH after it has been washed with an alkaline soap, but now most cleansers are gentle enough to not alter the skin’s pH much, so the original purpose of toners is now largely void. 
• Vitamin C is an antioxidant which can help to protect your skin from environmental damage. It also has collagen-boosting properties, making it a useful adjunct for anti-ageing, and brightening properties which can help with hyperpigmentation. Use your vitamin C in the morning so it can work hand in hand with your sunscreen.
• Treating hyperpigmentation needs a multi-pronged approach including a mixture of dark-mark-busting ingredients such as azelaic acid, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, niacinamide... Instead of trying to use 10 different products, look for combination serums formulated with a mixture of these.
• You don’t need to exfoliate every day. Some people don’t need to exfoliate at all. If you do want to exfoliate, most dermatologists prefer chemical exfoliation, as physical exfoliants are usually harsh and come with a risk of traumatising the skin. Your chemical exfoliants are your AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid), BHAs (salicylic acid) and PHAs. Start at a low concentration just 2-3x per week to prevent irritation.
• A common mistake with acne-prone skin is to use harsh ingredients that strip the skin or to wash the face several times a day. This can irritate the skin and make acne worse. Moderate to severe acne is a medical condition and should be managed with the help of a professional. Mild to moderate acne can benefit from over-the-counter skincare including ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. 
• If you’re adding a serum, choose one based on its ingredients and what it’s going to add to what you already have in your routine. You don’t need it just because TikTok said you do!

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So here is a whistle-stop tour through the basics of creating a skincare routine. Throughout it all, the most important consideration is to listen to your skin, don’t overdo it, and prioritise consistency over the number of products.

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